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Dry Furmint is an affordable, food-friendly introduction to Tokaj's high-acid grapes.
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Wine Regions
For centuries, Tokaj's golden sweet wine was served at royal courts across Europe. Today the Hungarian region makes stunning dry wines too. Here is how to explore both.
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Tokaj is in the far northeast of Hungary, near the border with Slovakia, and a small part of the historic region extends into Slovakia. The vineyards cover the slopes of volcanic hills where the Bodrog and Tisza rivers meet. That river junction is the secret to Tokaj wine. In autumn, morning mists rise off the water and settle over the vineyards, then warm afternoon sun burns them off. This cycle encourages noble rot (botrytis), a beneficial fungus that pierces the grape skins. Water evaporates, the berries shrivel, and the sugar, acidity, and flavor inside become intensely concentrated. Soils are mostly volcanic, with clay and loess in places, giving wines a firm, mineral backbone. The climate is continental, with cold winters and long, warm autumns that allow late picking. The Tokaj wine region’s historic landscape is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Furmint is the backbone of Tokaj and its most planted grape. It has thin skins that welcome noble rot and very high acidity that keeps even the sweetest wines fresh. In dry form, it tastes of quince, pear, lime, and smoke, with a stony finish. Hárslevelű, which means “linden leaf,” is the second grape. It is softer, more aromatic, and floral, with honey and spice, and is often blended with Furmint to add perfume. Sárga Muskotály, or Yellow Muscat, contributes grapey, floral aromas in smaller amounts. A few other local varieties are permitted, including Zéta and Kövérszőlő, but you will mostly see Furmint and Hárslevelű on labels. If you like Riesling, Furmint is worth knowing: it shares the same high acidity and ability to make great wines from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, along with a long aging potential.
Tokaji Aszú is the region’s crown jewel. Shriveled, noble-rot berries, called aszú, are picked one by one, then soaked in fermenting must or young wine, which pulls out their sugar and flavor. The wine then ages in barrel for years. Labels traditionally show puttonyos, a measure of sweetness named for the baskets used to collect aszú berries; since 2013, Aszú must be at least 5 puttonyos, so you will see 5 or 6, and higher numbers mean sweeter wine. Eszencia is the rarest style: the syrupy juice that drips from aszú berries under their own weight, fermenting so slowly that it stays extremely sweet and very low in alcohol. Szamorodni, meaning “as it comes,” uses whole bunches with some noble rot and can be dry (száraz) or sweet (édes). Late-harvest Tokaj is a lighter, fresher late harvest wine. And dry Furmint is now a major category of its own.
The region is made up of a string of villages along the volcanic hills, and some names appear often on labels. Tokaj, the town that gave the region its name, sits where the two rivers meet, beneath the hill of the same name. Mád is widely regarded as one of the top villages, with many celebrated vineyards and a strong reputation for both sweet and dry wines. Tarcal and Tállya are known for structured, long-lived wines. Sárospatak, in the north, has a historic castle and deep cellars, and Erdőbénye and Olaszliszka are home to well-regarded vineyards. Tokaj was also one of the first places in the world to classify its vineyards by quality, back in the 1700s. Today, some wineries name single vineyards on their labels, so you may see a vineyard name alongside the village.
Begin with a dry Furmint. It is affordable, widely available, and shows the region’s bright acidity and smoky minerality; try it with roast chicken, pork, or creamy mushroom dishes. Then treat yourself to a 5 puttonyos Tokaji Aszú, often sold in a slim half-liter bottle. It is one of the great dessert wines, yet its acidity keeps it from feeling heavy. Pair it with foie gras, fruit tarts, apricot desserts, or crème brûlée. Sweet Tokaj is also famous with blue cheese, where salt and sweetness balance each other. Sweet Szamorodni works with nut cakes and aged cheeses, while dry Szamorodni suits savory starters. Serve dry wines at 48 to 52°F and sweet wines at 50 to 55°F in small glasses. An opened bottle of Aszú keeps for a week or more in the fridge, thanks to its sugar and acidity.
Tokaj is about a three-hour drive or train ride northeast of Budapest, which makes it a rewarding two- or three-day trip. Base yourself in the town of Tokaj, Mád, or Tarcal and visit small family wineries as well as larger estates. A highlight is the region’s underground cellars, tunnels carved into the volcanic rock, some centuries old. Many are lined with a dark, fuzzy cellar mold that thrives in the cool, humid air and is a sign of a traditional cellar. Late summer and autumn are the best times to visit, when you can see noble rot developing on the grapes; harvest of aszú berries often runs into October and November. The countryside is quiet, so check winery hours and book tastings ahead. A comparison of dry Furmint, Szamorodni, and Aszú side by side is the best way to understand the region.
| Style | Character | Try It With |
|---|---|---|
| Dry Furmint | Quince, pear, lime, smoky minerality | Roast chicken, pork, mushrooms |
| Hárslevelű | Floral, honeyed, gently spicy | Asian dishes, soft cheeses |
| Late harvest | Lightly sweet, fresh, fruity | Fruit salad, mild blue cheese |
| Szamorodni | Dry and nutty or sweet and rich | Nuts, aged cheese, savory starters |
| Tokaji Aszú (5–6 puttonyos) | Apricot, marmalade, honey, vivid acidity | Foie gras, blue cheese, fruit tarts |
| Eszencia | Syrupy, intensely sweet, very low alcohol | Sipped alone by the spoonful |
Dry Furmint is an affordable, food-friendly introduction to Tokaj's high-acid grapes.
On Tokaji Aszú, more puttonyos means a sweeter, richer wine.
Opened Aszú stays fresh in the fridge for a week or more.
Learn Your Taste
Answer a few simple questions and discover styles that fit your palate.
Take the Wine QuizTokaji Aszú is a sweet wine from Hungary's Tokaj region, made by soaking noble-rot shriveled grapes in fermenting must or young wine. It tastes of apricot, marmalade, and honey, with high acidity that keeps it fresh.
Puttonyos is a traditional measure of sweetness on Tokaji Aszú labels, named after the baskets used to collect aszú berries. Higher numbers mean sweeter wine; modern bottles usually show 5 or 6 puttonyos.
No. Tokaj is famous for sweet wine, but dry Furmint and dry blends are now a large and growing part of production. Szamorodni can also be dry. Check the label for száraz, meaning dry, or édes, meaning sweet.
Tokaj is the name of the region and its main town. Tokaji means from Tokaj, so it is used for the wines, as in Tokaji Aszú. You will see both spellings on labels and menus.
Unopened, quality Tokaji Aszú can age for decades thanks to its sugar and acidity. Once opened, it keeps in the refrigerator for a week or more, much longer than a typical dry wine.
Dry Furmint is crisp and medium-bodied, with quince, pear, lime, and a smoky, mineral finish. Its high acidity makes it food-friendly, and it is also the main grape in sweet Tokaji Aszú.
