Start With Federspiel
Federspiel is the most versatile Wachau style and usually the best value.
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Wine Regions
Steep stone terraces above the Danube make the Wachau one of Europe's most beautiful wine valleys. Here is what its Grüner Veltliner and Riesling taste like and how to read the labels.
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The Wachau is a short, narrow stretch of the Danube River valley in Lower Austria, roughly an hour west of Vienna, running between the towns of Melk and Krems. Steep hills rise straight from the river, so vines are planted on narrow terraces held up by dry stone walls, many built centuries ago. The landscape is so striking that the valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The climate is shaped by two forces. Cool air drifts down from the forested Waldviertel plateau to the north and west, while warmer air flows in from the Pannonian plain to the east. That meeting creates warm days and cool nights during the ripening season, which build ripe flavor while keeping acidity bright. Soils are mainly ancient rock such as gneiss and granite on the steep upper slopes, with deeper loess lower down. Together they give Wachau wine its focus and mineral character.
Two grapes define the Wachau. Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white and the most planted grape here. It tastes of lime, green apple, and white pepper, often with a hint of green bean or lentil, and it ranges from light and zippy to rich and creamy. It tends to thrive on the deeper loess soils lower on the slopes. Riesling covers less ground but makes many of the region’s most prized wines, usually from the rocky, steep upper terraces. Wachau Riesling is dry, with apricot, peach, citrus, and a stony, almost flinty finish. It is fuller and riper than most German Riesling, closer in weight to those from Alsace. Small amounts of Gelber Muskateller, Neuburger, and Pinot Blanc are also grown. Red grapes are rare here; for Austrian reds, look to Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt from regions farther east.
The Wachau has its own ripeness categories, created by a local growers’ association, and you will see them on many bottles. Steinfeder, named after a feathery grass that grows among the terraces, is the lightest style, with a maximum of 11.5 percent alcohol; it is fresh, easy, and rarely exported. Federspiel, named after a falconry lure, sits between 11.5 and 12.5 percent and gives elegant, medium-bodied wines with crisp acidity. Smaragd, named after the emerald-green lizards that bask on the warm stone walls, is the ripest and fullest, above 12.5 percent alcohol, with power and the structure to age for many years. All three are dry. More recently, the region also adopted an official Wachau DAC system that names wines by region, village, or single vineyard, called a Ried. Both systems can appear on the same label.
Wachau labels often name a village and a vineyard, so a few names help. Spitz, at the cooler western end, makes taut, elegant wines. Moving east, Weissenkirchen is the heart of the valley and is surrounded by famous terraced sites. Joching and Wösendorf sit close by. Dürnstein, with its blue church tower and castle ruins where England’s King Richard the Lionheart was once held captive, is the region’s most visited town and known for powerful wines. Loiben, at the warm eastern end near Krems, gives some of the richest Smaragd. On the south bank, around Mautern and Rossatz, vineyards are fewer but growing in reputation. The word Ried before a name means a single vineyard. Next door, the Kremstal and Kamptal regions grow the same two grapes in slightly softer styles and are often good value.
Start with a Federspiel Grüner Veltliner. It is the most food-friendly Wachau style and shows the grape’s citrus and pepper without too much weight. Then compare a Federspiel Riesling from the same area to taste how the two grapes differ. When you are ready for something special, open a Smaragd Riesling and let it breathe. Grüner Veltliner is famous for matching foods that challenge other wines, such as asparagus, artichokes, and salads, so it is a top pick for vegetarian dishes. It is also the classic partner for Wiener schnitzel, roast chicken, and Asian dishes with herbs and ginger. Riesling suits trout, freshwater fish, and roast pork. Rich Smaragd wines can handle lobster, veal in cream sauce, and even mild curries. Serve Federspiel at 46 to 50°F and Smaragd a bit warmer, around 52°F.
The Wachau is easy to reach from Vienna by train, car, or river cruise. Many visitors cycle the flat Danube bike path, which follows the river through villages and vineyards, stopping for tastings along the way. Boats run between Melk, with its huge Baroque abbey, and Krems, so you can ride one way and bike back. Look for Heurigen, rustic wine taverns where growers serve their own young wines with simple food; a wreath or branch hung outside usually means one is open. Spring brings the famous apricot blossom, and Wachau apricots are a local specialty made into jams, brandy, and dumplings. Autumn is harvest time, from September into November, when the terraces turn gold. Summer weekends can be busy, so book accommodations early and check winery hours before you go.
| Grape or Style | Character | Try It With |
|---|---|---|
| Grüner Veltliner Federspiel | Lime, green apple, white pepper, crisp | Schnitzel, asparagus, salads |
| Grüner Veltliner Smaragd | Rich, creamy, spicy, full-bodied | Roast chicken, veal, mild curry |
| Riesling Federspiel | Peach, citrus, stony, elegant | Trout, sushi, light fish |
| Riesling Smaragd | Apricot, intense minerality, powerful | Lobster, roast pork, aged cheese |
| Steinfeder | Light, fresh, low alcohol | Picnics, aperitif, light snacks |
Federspiel is the most versatile Wachau style and usually the best value.
Smaragd Riesling and Grüner age beautifully; decant young bottles for 30 minutes.
Kremstal and Kamptal offer similar grapes in softer styles at friendly prices.
Learn Your Taste
Answer a few simple questions and discover styles that fit your palate.
Take the Wine QuizSmaragd is the ripest and fullest of the Wachau's three dry wine categories, with more than 12.5 percent alcohol. It is named after the emerald lizards that bask on the vineyard walls. Smaragd wines are powerful and age well.
No. Almost all Wachau wine is dry, including Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd styles. Even very ripe Smaragd wines are fermented to dryness, so their richness comes from ripe fruit and alcohol, not sugar.
Grüner Veltliner tastes of lime, green apple, and white pepper, sometimes with a green bean or lentil note. Lighter versions are crisp and zippy, while riper Wachau Smaragd styles are creamy, spicy, and full-bodied.
Wachau Riesling is almost always dry and tends to be riper and fuller-bodied, with apricot and stony minerality. German Riesling ranges from dry to sweet, and lighter styles, such as Mosel Kabinett, are more delicate and lower in alcohol.
Top Smaragd wines from famous vineyards can be pricey because the steep terraces must be farmed by hand. Federspiel wines and bottles from neighboring Kremstal and Kamptal are often good value for the quality.
The Wachau is about an hour west of Vienna. You can take a train to Krems or Melk, drive, or join a river cruise. Many visitors combine the trip with a bike ride along the Danube.
